Day 01 Fly to Kathmandu
Day 02 Arrive Kathmandu
We will be taken to the Summit Hotel, a delightful garden hotel situated away from the bustle of the city centre. It is possible to hire bicycles here, which enable the shops and bazaars of the city centre to be reached in 10 minutes or so.
Day 03 Fly to Lukla
We will be taken to the airport for one of the great flights of the Himalaya . If the sky is clear during our flight, we will get our first views of Everest and the region in which we will be climbing. The Twin Otter aircraft will take us to the hillside village of Lukla , which is the start of our trek to Mera. Here we will meet our camp staff and porters and set off straight away for our first camp at Poyan (2,800m).
Day 04 Pangkongma (2,846m)
After crossing the Poyan Khola, we turn off the main trade route coming up from the south and join an older route, which climbs steeply to the ridge-line overlooking the Khare Khola. Descending the other side of the ridge, we then contour along the hillside before climbing steadily up to the attractive farming and trading village of Pangkongma (2,846m). Many expedition members have been made welcome by the villagers here, spending several pleasant hours warming themselves in front of an open fire in the enveloping and welcoming atmosphere of the local's traditional Sherpa homes.
Day 05 Nashing Dingma (2,600m)
With fine views westwards towards Takshindu monastery and Lamjura, we climb through thick rhododendron forest and bamboo leading to the Pangkongma La. From here, we have good views of the south face of Mera with its twin peaks and of its neighbour Naulekh. We then make a scenic descent with beautiful views looking south across the endless foothills rising each side of the Hinku valley. This steep descent leads down to the wire rope bridge that spans the Hinku Khola. A steep, strenuous climb on the opposite side leads to Nashing Dingma (2,600m). We stay here for the night at the excellent campsite established by the Makalu National Park .
Day 06 Chalem Kharka (3,600m)
Gaining height gradually through pasture and lush greenery, the trail steepens as we climb up to the Surke La. It is possible to take a nice, welcome cup of tea in a lodge just over the pass. Walking on, eventually, we reach an attractive campsite at a col 1km beyond Chalem Kharka (3,600m), set among fir trees and rhododendron bushes.
Day 07 Chunbu Kharka (4,200m)
Climbing the side of a ridge, we emerge from the last traces of rhododendron and the terrain becomes more rugged. Passing through high grazing country and crossing a small pass, we are treated to some excellent views of Kangchenjunga and Jannu to the east. We continue climbing to Panch Pokari and then on to camp at Chunbu Kharka (4,200m).
Day 08 Rest day at Chunbu Kharka
Today, we have a well-earned rest day. Whether you take it easy and relax, or scramble some of the nearby rocky outcrops, this is a rewarding day and a useful aid to acclimatisation.
Day 09 Descent into the Hinku Valley
We set off from Chunbu Kharka and contour around the main Hinku Valley before making a series of steep descents through scree and then rhododendron. We eventually arrive on the valley floor and witness the incredible devastation caused by a natural damn at the head of the valley bursting in 1998. The valley floor has been torn to pieces, leaving boulders, dead trees and silt where once there was an ancient forest. Our campsite is on a pleasant grassy patch, on the now much higher bank of the rocky riverbed. This is a short day and we can spend the afternoon exploring the rather extreme terrain!
Day 10 Dig Kharka (4,650m)
We now walk towards the mountain as the trail swings to the east. We gain height gradually until we find ourselves at Dig Kharka (4,650m), close to the foot of the Hinku Nup Glacier. This is a pleasant, grassy camp in an impressive situation
Day 11 Acclimatisation day at Dig Kharka
This is an acclimatisation day, offering a worthwhile trip onto the glacier (5,100m). An "ecole de glace" will provide members with the opportunity to brush up on their cramponing and ice axe technique. We will have our first day on snow tomorrow as we cross the Mera La.
Day 12 Mera Peak base camp (5,300m)
Today we climb up to the Mera La (5,400m). This is an exciting day as we climb onto the Mera Glacier and follow it to the pass. This is in a superb high mountain setting and is a worthwhile objective in itself. We establish our base camp on the far side of the pass, so as to avoid sleeping on ice. The descent from the pass to the campsite is very short and can be done easily using the margin between the moraine and the glacier on its northern side as it descends from the col.
Day 13 Acclimatisation at Mera Peak base camp
This is another acclimatisation day (at 5,300m), in final preparation for the climb tomorrow. Not only do we acclimatise further, we use the day to best advantage with a snow and ice training session on the snout of the glacier that descends from the Mera La. This "ecole de glace" provides essential skills training in the use of ice axe and crampons in readiness for the climb.
Day 14 Move to high camp (5,800m)
Today, we make the climb to the high camp. This is located at about 5,800 metres on the Northern slopes of the upper mountain. It provides an excellent launch pad for the final climb to the summit. There is no need to make an early start but we must get our equipment ready so that the Sherpas can help with carrying this and the camp stores to the high camp. Having gained the Mera La, the route turns left (south) and follows easy angled snow slopes. After a short distance an area of crevasses is reached. Under normal conditions these can be walked around very easily, although looking into their deep, dark depths is always impressive. The crevasses soon give way to slightly steeper but open snow slopes that lead without difficulty to the high camp. This camp is in an excellent setting with wonderful views of Everest, Makalu and the Nuptse, Lhotse wall directly ahead. The setting sun casts an unbelievably magic light on these awesome mountains.
Day 15 Mera Peak Ascent (6,476m/21,246ft)
The climb to the summit of Mera starts gradually and much will depend on snow and general weather conditions. The central summit will soon appear above the head of a wide glacier flanked by two ridges. We climb the centre of this over open snowfields and avoiding crevasses. The route then swings south-east, skirting below and to the east of the left-hand ridge before turning back rightwards towards the main summit ridge of Mera. Mera actually has three summits; the highest is our objective. We reach this by following a classic snow-ridge to just below the final wall that guards the top. This short steep snow slope is easily climbed but there is a big effort required to climb this last 50 metres. Your reward, however, is a feeling of ecstatic jubilation as you survey the magnificent panorama from the top. After taking pictures and enjoying the view, we descend by the same route back to our campsite below the Mera La.
Day 16 Extra day for Climbing ( in case of weather conditions )
Day 17 Tangnang
Day 18 Tashingdingma
Day 19 Chetera
Day 20 Lukla
Day 21 Lukla / Ktm
Day 22 Kathmandu
Day 23 Onward Journey. |
Mera (6,476m/21,246ft) and Island Peak (6,189m/20,305ft) are both highly sought after summits in their own right. Although geographically fairly close together, they are separated by the formidable mountain chain dividing the Hongu and Khumbu Valleys. This expedition provides a rare opportunity for climbers to attempt both peaks, linking them with a crossing of the difficult, yet stunning Amphu Labtsa Pass (5,780m/18,963ft). This has proved to be a very popular expedition as it provides a unique opportunity to visit one of the most beautiful and remote valleys in Nepal combined with a high altitude climbing programme, which takes participants through a progressive range of mountaineering skills. To give potential team members greater flexibility in planning their annual leave, we have departures in the spring (pre-monsoon) and in the autumn (post-monsoon). 
